1 BASIC TECHNICAL REFERENCE BOOK for Newbies on Fri Apr 10, 2009 8:59 pm
GEARS: (Does NOT affect Gun FPS, only ROF)
Infinite=(1) Ultra=(2) SuperTorqueUp=(3) TorqueUp=(4) StockRatio=(5) FastGear=(6)
Numbers indicate "car-gear-shift". *Small batts (non Sub-C) DOWNSHIFT to next LOWER gear.
Common Gear-to-Spring Setup for Big Batt (engine) (Sub-C):
Fast Gears (6) - UP TO M100 / SP100 / PDI120%
Stock Gears (5) can 'safely' handle up to M130, SP130, PDI190% on 9.6v 1700mAh(min)
Torque Up Gears (4) - M130 / SP130 / PDI190%-210% or LOWER
Torque Up Gears OR Super Torque Up (4/3) - M140 / SP140 / PDI240%
Ultra Torque Up Gears (2) - M150 / SP150 / PDI270%
Ultra or Infinite Gears (2/1) - M160 / SP160 Needs minor machining to fit on Ver.2 GearBox
Infinite Torque Up Gears (1) - M170 / SP170 Needs minor machining to fit on Ver.2 GearBox
*Some Gear set won't fit on some reinforced Gearbox- PLEASE CHECK first before you get one.
*No known machining on stock ver.3 GearBox to fit any gear set.
*AVOID using Bearing Bushings on M120 above. only for soft springs
M130 / SP130 / PDI190%-PDI210% on STOCK Gears will last Approx. 5-10 months (depends on use)
Stock Gears - Low Cost, nice ROF. will not last long. (cast alloy)
Flat Gears - Noisier, Cheaper. More durable (steel)
Helical Gears - Silent. Expensive. shimming sensitive (steel) Avoid pairing w/ Bearing Bushings
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BATTERY: (Does NOT affect Gun FPS, only ROF and Rounds of fire)
Voltage = Rate of Fire (ROF) mAh = BB-Rounds (Power/Stamina)
BIG INTERNAL Standard Battery Size [Ni-CAD]:
M4A1 - 9.6v 1700mAh (Fat-long AA) V-Type 12v 1700mAh(max)
M4A1 Patriot - 12v 1700mah (Fat-long AA) Circular config
G36C - 9.6v 1500mAh (Fat AA)
M733 - 9.6v 1500mAh (Fat AA) Chako-Type 12v 1700mAh(max)
AK 47/Spetz - 10.4 2400mAh (Sub-C) 12v(max)
M16A1/A2/VN/SR16 - 9.6v 2400mAh (Sub-C) 13.2v(max)
CAR15 - 8.4v 600mAh (Small) 1500mAh (max) (Fat AA) 2-separates
P90 - 9.6v 1700mAh (Fat-long AA) J-Type
G3A3,G3SG1,MP5A4,MP5SD5 - 9.6v 2400mAh (Sub-C) Straight
MP5SD6 - 9.6v 1500mAh (Fat AA) V-type
MP5A5 - 9.6v 1100mAh (Slim) Chako-Type
Steyr AUG - 9.6v 1700mAh (Fat-long AA) Box-Type
PSG-1 10.8v 1500mAh (Fat AA) 13.2v(max)
M16 Dummy/Ready MAG - 9pcs 10.8v 1700mAh (Fat-long AA)
AN/PEQ 2 Dummy Laser Box - 9.6v 1700mAh (w/laser) 12v 1700mAh(max)
Approx. Battery-to-Rounds Capacity: [NiCd] (on M120 Stock Gears, EG1000)
9.6v 600mAh = 500 rounds (Small) Sanyo KR600AE 9.5mOhm Internal Resistance
9.6v 1100mAh = 1,000 rounds (Slim) Sanyo KR1100AAU 19mOhm Internal Resistance
9.6v 1500mAh = 1,400 rounds (Fat AA) Sanyo KR1500AUL 16mOhm Internal Resistance
9.6v 1700mAh = 1,800 rounds (Fat-long AA) Sanyo KR1700AU 17mOhm Int. Resistance
9.6v 1900mAh = 2,400 rounds (Sub-C) Sanyo N-1900SCR 4mOhm Internal Resistance
9.6v 2000mAh = 2,600 rounds (Sub-C) Sanyo KR-CH 6.5mOhm Internal Resistance
9.6v 2400mAh = 3,100 rounds (Sub-C) Sanyo CP-2400SCR 4.5mOhm Internal Resistance
9.6v 3000mAh = 3,800 rounds (Sub-C) Sanyo HR-SCU [Ni-MH] 5.3mOhm Internal Resistance
*can someone confirm this rounds guesstimation--
BEST BUY: 9.6v 1700mAh(small-type) 9.6v 2400mAh(large-type)
Approx. CHARGING Time on 1000mAh Output Charger:
600mAh = 36mins(min) 42mins(std) 48mins(max)
1100mAh = 1hr 6mins(min) 1hr 19mins(std) 1hr 30mins(max)
1500mAh = 1hr 20mins(min) 1hr 48mins(std) 2hrs 7mins(max)
1700mAh = 1hr 42mins(min) 2hrs(standard) 2hrs 24mins(max)
1900mAh = 1hr 53mins(min) 2hrs 18mins(std) 2hrs 43mins(max)
2000mAh = 2hours(minimum) 2hrs 24mins(std) 2hrs 48mins(max)
2400mAh = 2hrs 23mins(min) 2hrs 54mins(std) 3hrs24mins(max)
3000mAh = 3hours(min) 3hrs 37mins(std) 4hrs 13mins(max)
*Charger should be 1 to 3 volts higher voltage than total battery voltage
Go over to http://digibattery.com for more battery-charging-time calculations
DISCHARGING: Number of batteries in a Pack = Max discharge volts.
(ex. 9.6v = 8cells in a pack = 8.0v is the maximum discharged voltage)
Note: Sorry, no finds for Li-poli batteries. Will update soon.
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PISTON: Depends on your spring and trigger abuse.
M140 Above = Aluminum Piston (for ratatat players)
. Choice1: ICS Aluminum Piston
. Choice2: Systema Aluminum Piston
*if compatible, get the half-tooth to lessen the weight
M140 Below = Polycarbonate Piston
. Choice1: Guarder Polycarb Piston (blue)
. Choice2: Tokyo Marui Stock Piston (white) -- polycarbonate too
. Choice3: Systema Polycarb Piston (black) brittle bad choice
AVOID the RED PISTON-Systema Polycarb (defective) there's a newer version
*haven't tried the TGS(blue), TOP or Prometheus Hard Pistons yet, but it looks promising -- pls review
*some use polycarbs on m140 above but with trigger care
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CYLINDER: (cylinderVolume-to-barrel-ratio) 2 is to 1 (standard)
Marui Stock Cylinders:
1. Closed Cylinder = 27.1cc 450mm(min) 580mm(max) barrel length
2. XM Cylinder = "4/5 hole" = 364mm(min) 460mm(max) barrel length
3. M4 Cylinder = "3/4 hole" aka Type-2 17cc - 229mm(min) 430mm(max) barrel length
4. MP5K Cylinder = "mid hole" 9cc 110mm(min) 170mm(max) barrel length
Systema NB Standard and BoreUp Parts:
1. Type-0 Cylinder (closed) fits M16-A1,VN,A2,G3-A4,SG1,SIG550,AUG
2. Type-1 Cylinder (tip hole) for XM177, M4, AK47, AK47S, SIG551
3. Type-2 Cylinder (XM hole) for MP5-A4,A5,SD5,SD6, MC51,SIG552
4. Type-3 Cylinder (M4 "3/4" hole) for MP5 PDW
5. Type-4 Cylinder (MP5K mid hole) for MP5K
*BoreUp Closed 29.4cc = 500mm(min) 600mm(max) barrel length
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KM Cylinder Parts:
*Intercept Cylinder 59 barrel length from 450mm to 590mm (Type 0)
*Intercept Cylinder 45 barrel length from 250mm to 450mm (Type 2)
*Intercept Cylinder 25 barrel length from 100mm to 250mm (Mid-hole)
*To avoid confusion, don't mix brand model names, just model equivalence
*TM M733 by stock is closed cylinder (Type 0) -over ratio
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Standard-Efficient Ratio is 1.5 is to 1
2-2.5 : 1 for springs up to M130 --- 2.5-3.0 : 1 for strong springs M140 -> UP
needs further research
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BARREL: (inner barrel length)
650mm/25.59in PSG-1 (extended)
595mm/23.42in APS2 OR
550mm/21.65in M16A1/VN/A2,AUG (extended)
472mm/18.58in Famas SV/F1
407mm/16.02in M4A1 M653E2 (extended)
395mm/15.55in APS2 SV
300mm/11.81in M1A1,AKBetaSpetz, M733
247mm/9.72in Car15,P90,G36C, SIG552
245mm/9.64in UZI - 400mm/15.74in (extended)
170mm/6.69in MP5K-PDW (extended)
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TM EG560 (famas)
TM EG700 (need more spec info)
TM EG1000 27,552rpm 1,407.00G.cm Torque
Systema "Genuine" 29,825rpm 1,6999.83G.cm Torque
Systema "Hi-Speed" 37,400rpm 1,915.99G.cm Torque
Systema "Hi-Torque" 32,302rpm 1,932.49G.cm Torque
Systema "Super Hi-Torque" 34,787rpm 1,998.47G.cm Torque
Eagle Force Hummer 1100 (high-speed)
Eagle Force Hummer 1300 (super-high-speed)
Double Eagle Red, and Blue Silver Magnet-can drive stock gears up to sp150, m150 springs and its
equivalence but with an aid of 20c 11.1 volts lithium polimer batteries. Better change to performanced
high speed gears for more prolonged use.
Remove everything from the mechbox that will get in the way of getting to the gears. This includes the spring/piston/cylinder assembly, and then it depends on the gear box.
With version two mechboxes, the little safety lever needs to be removed so that the selector plate can be slide forward and off. Now there should be only the trigger assembly left in place.
With other versions, other parts may or may not need to be removed.
When checking shimming, do not install the anti-reversal latch, motor or anything else that may restrict the gears movements in either forwards or backwards.
2) Shims and Bushings
[note: I speak only of Systema shims. I am not familiar with stock or other shims. For simplicity, I always replace all shims with Systema ones.]
There are three different sizes of shims, 0.5mm, 0.3mm, and 0.2mm thickness. There are two different diameters of shims, the small and the large. Of the two smaller diameter shims, they are noticeably different in thickness. They are the .2mm and .5mm thick shims. The large diameter shims are the .3mm thick ones.
Since your reading this guide, your are most likely replacing the bushings. If the replacements are solid metal they will be a tight fit. I first try pressuring them into place by pushing with my thumb really hard. If it does not pop into place, I take something soft and tap it into place. Most commonly I end up lightly hammering them in using the plastic handle of a screw driver. Make sure to force the bushings into place EVENLY!
If you are replacing the stock bushings with bearing bushings, they will be a loose fit, and it is easier to put them on the gears than to try to make them stay in place on the mechbox. Don't worry about how unstable the bearings feel, they will be plenty beefy when the mechbox is together.
3) Spur Gear
On the bottom(left) side of the gear, place a single .3mm shim. With the Fa-Mas, it might be necessary to have more shims than any other mechbox. With my only Fa-Mas shimming experience, I had to use two .3mm shims on that side, and generally a lot of shims all around.
Put the gear into its place, and put the top(right) half of the mechbox on, and just hold them together tightly with your hands. Push the axle with a tooth pick or something similar, and note about how much it moves. Now it's just a game of guess and check with shims on the top(right) part of the spur gear. Once you think you have it just right, with little to no movement, put in three or four screws to make sure its held tightly(more than your hand can do). It should have very little or no movement side to side, AND you should be able to reach a finger in through the empty cylinder hole and freely spin the gear. If there is too many shims on the upper axle part, it will have resistance or be completely stuck. If there are too few shims, it will turn freely but have too much side to side movement.
4) Bevel Gear
Start with the bottom(left) half of the mechbox including the shimmed spur gear. Place two .2mm shims on the bottom(left) part of the axle and put it in its place in the bottom(left) half of the mechbox. Check for clearance between the teeth of the spur gear that mesh with the normal teeth of the bevel gear and the notched part that the anti reversal latch rides on.* If they interfere with each other, then the bevel gear needs more shims on the bottom(left). If there is ample clearance (unlikely), you may want to drop it down to a single .3mm shim. The idea here is: You do not want to compromise the gears' teeth because of the bevel gear having too many bottom(left) shims leading to minimal gear tooth surface contact between gears, but at the same time you don't want the anti-reversal latch contact area to be grinding with the spur gear.
OK, enough rambling. Throw the right side on and check for movement the same way you did for the spur gear. Then guess and check, put in a few screws and do the final spin check with the two gears. Re-adjust and re-test as needed.
5) Sector Gear
Almost exactly like the bevel gear, start with the bottom(left) half of the mechbox including the shimmed spur gear and bevel gear. Place one .2mm shim and one .5mm shim on the bottom(left) part of the axle. Check for clearance.* This time you want to make sure the large diameter part of the spur gear is not going to be binding with the teeth on the sector gear that engage the spur gear on it's smaller diameter part.
*A general note about gear clearance: Remember that when the mechbox is together, the gears will not be able to twist(axels slightly off of parallel) relative to each other, so when checking the clearance, you may see interference that should not be there since you only have one half of the mechbox on. Make sure to not accidentally over shim the bottom(right) side of the bevel or sector gears because of this.
Thanks...Hope my find helps.